Maxima

Zou Maxima veel Argentijnse wijn drinken, vroeg ik me pas af. En zo ja, waar zou ze een voorkeur voor hebben?
Argentië heeft nog altijd maar een bescheiden marktaandeel in Nederland maar groeit als kool. Of dat met Maxima te maken heeft, Messi, Maradonna, steak of tango, of met de ‘veel waar voor je geld’-kwaliteit die het land voortbrengt, feit is dat Argentinië een rijzende ster is.
Eindelijk, wat mij betreft. Ik bezoek het land van Paus Franciscus al sinds midden jaren negentig en sindsdien een fan geworden. Daarbij heeft Argentinië op wijngebied in die twee decennia enorme stappen gemaakt. Niet alleen heeft men geleerd waar welke druiven te telen maar ook is er in navolging van een elite internationale wijnmakers (Rolland, Antonini, Hobbs) nu een generatie Argentijnse chefs de cave opgestaan die zich helemaal richt op terroir en balans in de wijnen. Zoals Alejandro Vigil, Sebastián Zuccardi, Roberto de la Mota, Edgardo del Popolo en Daniel Pi.
Hun belangrijkste uitdaging is om in de grimmige hitte van de woestijnzon het rijpingsproces zo te managen dat de druiven niet overrijp worden. Want noch in het zuiden, in Patagonia waar mijn wijntip van deze week vandaan komt, noch op grote hoogten (Cafayate en Uco) krijg je in Argentinië de soort frisheid van het door de Stille Oceaan verkoelde Chili. Neen, Argentinië heeft een echt landklimaat.
En toch is er een duidelijke trend waarneembaar naar frissere, lichtere stijlen, met name waar het de rode wijnen betreft. Of dat een stap is die ook gewaardeerd zal worden in de grootste exportmarkt van Argentinië -de Verenigde Staten- is nog maar de vraag. Amerikanen hebben een voorkeur ontwikkeld voor super gespierde Malbecs. Toch denk ik dat elegantere wijnen –het Nieuwe Argentinië- de toekomst is. Dat, samen met het omarmen van de andere rassen waar Argentinië goed in is: cabernet franc, bonarda en torrontès uiteraard.
Zou Maxima dáár misschien een voorkeur voor hebben?

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